Sukhumvit road is the center of modern day Bangkok, and this is where all the action is. From the most modern and huge shopping malls, to the most fashionable restaurants and street food joints, to sleazy message parlours, plenty of hotels, internet parlors and much more, Sukhumvit is evrything for everyone.
Sukhumvit is also among the longest roads not only in Thailand, but anywhere in the world. Towards the west end you have Ploenchit Road and Rama I Road, but to the east it runs most of the way to the Cambodian border.
What to see:
Siam Square (Siam BTS Station) would like to be the Times Square of Bangkok, and it does a pretty good job. Despite the name, this is in fact a warren of small sois filled with tiny shops and restaurants, mostly catering to upper class Thais, shopping-spree Malaysians, and working ex-pats. If you're not up for a trip to the Gap or a pink martini, it's still worth a visit just to see Bangkok-of-the-Future. The four movie theaters in the area are a good night out. You get a few hours in a plush theatre house - complete with air-con and assigned seats (170/190 baht). Hollywood and Asian blockbusters are featured nightly, all with the mandatory standing ovation to the King.
Malls
Central World Plaza corner of Rama I and Ratchaprarop (Chidlom BTS Station). Formerly the World Trade Center, this reopened in 2006 after a massive expansion and renovation, and is now the only mall in Bangkok that can give the Paragon a run for the money in both swank and size. Ice skating rink and a multiplex on the top floor, and contains large Isetan and Zen department stores.
Emporium Shopping Center, Sukhumvit Soi 24 (Phrom Phong BTS Station) is the top competitor to Gaysorn Plaza, with lower floors dedicated to brands like Louis Vuitton and Rolex, but (unlike Gaysorn) it has more affordably priced goods on the upper levels. Emporium also has a popular food court and a good selection of restaurants on the 5th floor. Go to the cinema on the top floor and you will find an amazing private library centered around design. You can get a free day pass. Spend the day reading amazing books, or just using the internet. Bring your passport.
Mahboonkrong, or just MBK (National Stadium BTS Station) is a vast and always packed mall full of tiny stalls (2500 of them, to be exact) selling, well, everything. There's a heavy emphasis on clothing, especially the cheap and trendy teen type, but the floor devoted to electronics is Bangkok's best place to buy a mobile phone, MP3/4 player, digital camera and much much more. Gold, furniture and Thai, Asian & Western food and a section of the 6th floor has been dedicated to handicrafts and souvenirs. Don't miss the dried fruits and Chinese-style snacks like pork floss at Champ on the 4th floor, near the central escalator. The top floor has movie theatres and restaurants, and there's a large Tokyu department store bolted on the north side facing the BTS station. MBK is just across the street from Siam Square and has a connecting walkway through the perennially crowded Bonanza Center, which offers more of the same.
Narayana Phand, President Tower Arcade (next to Intercontinental Hotel), 973 Ploenchit Road, A Thai handicraft center run by the government, offering a wide array of traditional crafts. Prices are fairly high and not negotiable, but clearly marked, so this is a good place to see what's on offer and find out baseline prices before hitting the markets. Open daily 10 AM-9 PM. Note: Narayana Phand's flagship store on Ratchadamri Rd was unceremoniously demolished in 2008, and it has now relocated to a smaller location in a shopping mall.
Siam Paragon (Siam BTS Station). Incredibly massive shopping mall right at the heart of Bangkok, anchored by the Paragon department store and also featuring the Siam Ocean World Siam Ocean World aquarium, the largest in South-East Asia. The fourth floor has a very good (if pricey) selection of modern Thai arts and crafts, as well as a large Kinokuniya bookstore. Great eating options in the basement, including a gourmet supermarket, two food courts and a canal-lined strip of fancy restaurants.
Street market on Sukhumvit, between Sois 1 and 20, offers many of the same items as the Patpong night market (although usually at somewhat better prices). Haggling is generally expected. Many tailor shops can be found here.
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