Places To Eat In Sukhumvit Road

There is a huge selection of places to eat in and around Sukhumvit and its side sois, although prices tend to be on the high side by Thai standards. With practically every cuisine in the world represented, this is the place to break your phad thai diet and sample some of the best Japanese, Lebanese, or Indian food you will ever eat.

Budget Eateries

Took Lae Dee, inside the Foodland Supermarket, Sukhumvit Soi 5 (Nana BTS Station) is a Bangkok institution. Imagine a long bar counter, only with chefs and food instead of bartenders and drinks, and a colorful cast of characters thanks to Nana Plaza across the street. The name literally means Cheap and Good and indeed basic fried rice starts at 40 baht, but the cheap Western dishes, many less than 100 baht, are what makes this place popular. The American breakfast (two eggs, ham, bacon or sausage, juice, toast, coffee) in particular is a steal at 47 baht between 06:00-09:00, or 58 baht at any other time.

Hong Kong Noodle, Soi 10 Siam Square. Serves up cheap and tasty wonton noodles (30 baht), a selection of dim sum (20-30 baht) and more Cantonese favorites in modern if utilitarian surroundings complete with air con, table service, etc. Excellent value. Open 10:00-22:00.

Soi 38. Under Thong Lo BTS Station, opposite Sukhumvit Soi 55. Not a restaurant in itself, but you'll get the best street food in Bangkok. Just sit at a table and order whatever you like from the numerous foodstalls (they'll figure out the bill for you). You can find the most delicious mango & sticky rice (khao niow ma muang) in town.

Between Soi 1 and Soi 3. A set of street food stalls with the best one furthest from the street. Good things to order include "Crispy fish in Chili Sauce", Tom Yum Soup and any of their Thai salads (such as mixed seafood salad). Also any Chinese-style fried vegetables is also delicious.

Food Courts

If you want cheap food and air-conditioning, head into the upper-floor food court of any department store. Most food courts use some variation of a coupon system; unused coupons are always refunded. Some of the better ones include:

Big C, Ratchadamri, next to Narayana Phand, 5th floor. New, bright, airy and very cheap with mostly Thai dishes as low as 20 baht. Payment with a stored-value card.

MBK, spacious fifth floor "The Fifth" food court was recently refurbished, has an assortment of Western, Asian, halal, and vegetarian dishes from 50 baht (electronic card system, pay as you leave). The sixth floor food court is cheap (less than 50 baht per serving) and popular but noisy, and serves mostly Thai food (pay by coupon).

FoodLoft, 7F Central Chidlom (connected to Chidlom BTS Station) [18]. Large and popular, a wide selection of food (Thai, Japanese, Chinese, Italian, Indian, Vietnamese) but fairly expensive with most dishes closer to 100 baht. You receive a 1000 baht token on entry and pay for what you've used on exiting.

Garden Kitchen, 1F Central Chidlom. Hidden behind the TOPS Supermarket in the same building as the FoodLoft, offers Thai fare (and English menus) at much cheaper prices (20-30 baht).

Emporium, 5F. Comparatively small and hidden behind the other restaurants, but cheap and often packed - at peak hours it's difficult to get a seat if you're alone. Pay by coupon, but the prices have been increasing over the past year.

Thai Restaurants

Kinnaree located in Sukhumvit Soi 8, about 150 meters inside the soi on the left. Short walk from Skytrain BTS Nana station. Very nice Thai ambience and decoration, great in the evening. Lounge bar and private rooms upstairs. A la carte main courses in the 200-400 Baht range. Different set lunch menus reasonably priced. Food excellent including items difficult to find in other places. Some dishes could be more spicy by Thai standards.

Once Upon A Time, 32 Petchaburi Soi 17, 02-252-8629. In a dubious-looking alley opposite Pantip Plaza, but worth hunting down despite the unlikely location. The restaurant is in an old Thai house with a garden, filled with photos of classical Thai film stars, and serves very good Thai food. Check out the special rooms upstairs on your way to the bathroom. Mains 100-200 baht.

Lan Som Tam Nua, also known as Som Tam Paradise, Siam Square Soi 4. If Thai food isn't spicy enough or you have yet to sample som tam (raw papaya salad), check out this trendy yet very friendly and very Thai restaurant specializing in northern Isaan food. For the full-on Isaan experience, order raw mango salad (ตำมะม่วง tam ma-muang), spicy pork salad (ลาบหมู laap muu), grilled chicken (ไก่ทอด kai thot) and sticky rice (ข้าวเหนียว khao nio) - which will cost less than 150 baht per head. No English menu, but the staff are glad to help. Warning: This is real Isaan food and thus very spicy!

Baan Khanitha, at 36/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (Asoke BTS Station). Well-known if mildly touristy restaurant in an old Thai house, the primary concession to Western tastes being the lack of chili. On the expensive side with most mains (esp. seafood) in the 200-400 baht range, but the food is generally excellent and the presentation spot-on. Best known for their pomelo salad and red curry with duck.

Cabbages and Condoms, 6 Sukhumvit Soi 12 (between Nana & Asoke BTS Stations). Run by Thailand's Population and Community Development Association, the odd name referring to the founder's belief that condoms should be as cheap as veggies; and no prizes for guessing what you'll get after dinner instead of an after-dinner mint. The food is competent but toned down for the foreign palate. Mains 150-300 Baht

Lemongrass, 5 Sukhumvit Soi 24. A very good if slightly expat-oriented Thai restaurant. Pomelo salad and tom yam kung (ต้มยำกุ้ง) are both excellent.

Food Centre Soi 5 (Nana BTS Station). Simple, well visited restaurant serving Thai and Western food. Thai dishes are reasonably original, with little concession to the Western taste. Rapid service. Main dishes around 100 baht.

Ruen Mallika, 189 Sukhumvit Soi 22. A very good in an "antique" Thai house with a leafy outdoor section. The menu is a huge picture book which should help in ordering. One thing to watch out is that it is actually not on Soi 22, it is in a little street off 22, take a right at the 7/11 when you are heading from Sukhumvit towards Rama IV and it is about 200-300m on your right. The staff are very friendly and wear traditional Thai outfits to complete the ambiance.

Fusion Restaurants

For Thai food with a twist, the hip districts of Siam Square and the H1 complex on Thong Lo (Sukhumvit Soi 55) are the best places to go hunting.

Bed Supperclub, 26 Soi 11 Sukhumvit, tel. 2651 3537. One of Bangkok's trendiest bar/club/restaurants with a sparsely minimalistic yet jaw-dropping decor. Visiting on weekends is recommended, as you'll be treated to a 4-course surprise meal and a weekly-changing floor show. Reservations are essential (by telephone or online), as only a single serving is served nightly at 21:00; be sure to request a bed and arrive at least 30 minutes early. Dietary restrictions can be catered for if informed in advance. But the bill for all this is steep: the 4-course meal will set you back 1750 baht plus drinks at around 200 baht a pop.

Greyhound Cafe, Emporium 2F (Phrom Phong BTS Station) and also Central Chidlom 2F (Chid Lom BTS Station). An extremely modern restaurant of concrete and brushed steel, offering a fusionesque menu of food ranging from authentic Thai to Italian pasta to Elvis burgers. Mains usually 100 baht+, although lunch sets are quite cheap.

Holy Pizza, Soi 7 Siam Square, 2654 6373. Siam Square at its best: hip, irreverent and innovative, with Thai pop art on the walls and thin-crust Italian pizza married to ingredients that would make the Pope blanch. Try the fairly conservative Vatican's Choice (mozzarella, Parma ham, rocket leaves; 240 baht), or get more experimental with chicken larb pizza.

Indian Restaurants

Indian Host, 30 Soi Sukhumvit 22 (Next to Grande Mercure Hotel), ☎ 02 2601115. Open 11:30 am to 11:30 pm. Contemporary North Indian Cuisine and Indo-Chinese Fusion. The tender lamb Raan is their signature dish.

Rang Mahal, 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 +66 2-261-7100. Bangkok's best Indian restaurant, offering world-class Mughal (North Indian) food in surroundings fit for a maharaja. Fairly expensive (well over 500 baht per head), but the all-you-can-eat Sunday champagne brunch buffet at 499 baht is a steal. This 26th floor restaurant also offers great views of Bangkok, call ahead for reservations and request a window view.

Akhbar's, Soi 3 Indian and Pakistani food

INDUS, Soi 26 Indian Cusine "http://www.indusbangkok.com" A spectacular view as you enter the candle lit path into the restaraunt. You would feel like you are in a real Indian Palace of the Indus Valley. Get seated in the room with exceptional decorations. The food is mainly Indian and a wide range of spicy Indian tastes. An impressive list of vegetarian menu as also available. Relax and dine with some famous wines around the world as you chill out in the indus bar with cool music. Go outside, experiencing an amazing world of your own, not even noticing it is right here in downtown bangkok. Recommemded to reserve first through phone. Come check it out as you wouldn't want to miss this unique place.

Middle Eastern Restaurants

Soi 3 and Soi 3/1, a short walk from Nana BTS Station, is known as Soi Arab for the heavy concentration of Middle Eastern businesses in the area; in some spots you will see more signs in Arabic than in Thai! Thanks to a demanding clientele and heavy competition, the food here is some of the best this side of Lebanon.

Al Ferdoss, 1F Schiller's Inn, 77/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1. It may have the ambience of a motel lobby (which it pretty much is), but the food here is amazing. Dips and salads (hummus, tabbouleh, falafel, etc) 80 baht a pop, kebabs 130 baht and up, and best of all is the excellent oven-fresh naan. Air-con indoors, but move outside for mint tea and some puffs of the shisha (water pipe).

Beirut Restaurant, Ploenchit Center B1F, Soi 2 Sukhumvit. In an unlikely location next to a supermarket in an otherwise nearly desolate shopping mall, Beirut gets negative points for ambience but serves up very good Middle Eastern fare. Basic shwarma in a pita less than 100 baht, set meals 220 baht and up.

Shahrazad, 6/8 Sukhumvit Road Soi 3/1 (Phone 02251 3666) Great Middle Eastern, Malaysian and Indian food.

Sukhumvit Road

Sukhumvit road is the center of modern day Bangkok, and this is where all the action is. From the most modern and huge shopping malls, to the most fashionable restaurants and street food joints, to sleazy message parlours, plenty of hotels, internet parlors and much more, Sukhumvit is evrything for everyone.

Sukhumvit is also among the longest roads not only in Thailand, but anywhere in the world. Towards the west end you have Ploenchit Road and Rama I Road, but to the east it runs most of the way to the Cambodian border.

What to see:

Siam Square (Siam BTS Station) would like to be the Times Square of Bangkok, and it does a pretty good job. Despite the name, this is in fact a warren of small sois filled with tiny shops and restaurants, mostly catering to upper class Thais, shopping-spree Malaysians, and working ex-pats. If you're not up for a trip to the Gap or a pink martini, it's still worth a visit just to see Bangkok-of-the-Future. The four movie theaters in the area are a good night out. You get a few hours in a plush theatre house - complete with air-con and assigned seats (170/190 baht). Hollywood and Asian blockbusters are featured nightly, all with the mandatory standing ovation to the King.

Malls

Central World Plaza corner of Rama I and Ratchaprarop (Chidlom BTS Station). Formerly the World Trade Center, this reopened in 2006 after a massive expansion and renovation, and is now the only mall in Bangkok that can give the Paragon a run for the money in both swank and size. Ice skating rink and a multiplex on the top floor, and contains large Isetan and Zen department stores.

Emporium Shopping Center, Sukhumvit Soi 24 (Phrom Phong BTS Station) is the top competitor to Gaysorn Plaza, with lower floors dedicated to brands like Louis Vuitton and Rolex, but (unlike Gaysorn) it has more affordably priced goods on the upper levels. Emporium also has a popular food court and a good selection of restaurants on the 5th floor. Go to the cinema on the top floor and you will find an amazing private library centered around design. You can get a free day pass. Spend the day reading amazing books, or just using the internet. Bring your passport.

Mahboonkrong, or just MBK (National Stadium BTS Station) is a vast and always packed mall full of tiny stalls (2500 of them, to be exact) selling, well, everything. There's a heavy emphasis on clothing, especially the cheap and trendy teen type, but the floor devoted to electronics is Bangkok's best place to buy a mobile phone, MP3/4 player, digital camera and much much more. Gold, furniture and Thai, Asian & Western food and a section of the 6th floor has been dedicated to handicrafts and souvenirs. Don't miss the dried fruits and Chinese-style snacks like pork floss at Champ on the 4th floor, near the central escalator. The top floor has movie theatres and restaurants, and there's a large Tokyu department store bolted on the north side facing the BTS station. MBK is just across the street from Siam Square and has a connecting walkway through the perennially crowded Bonanza Center, which offers more of the same.

Narayana Phand, President Tower Arcade (next to Intercontinental Hotel), 973 Ploenchit Road, A Thai handicraft center run by the government, offering a wide array of traditional crafts. Prices are fairly high and not negotiable, but clearly marked, so this is a good place to see what's on offer and find out baseline prices before hitting the markets. Open daily 10 AM-9 PM. Note: Narayana Phand's flagship store on Ratchadamri Rd was unceremoniously demolished in 2008, and it has now relocated to a smaller location in a shopping mall.

Siam Paragon (Siam BTS Station). Incredibly massive shopping mall right at the heart of Bangkok, anchored by the Paragon department store and also featuring the Siam Ocean World Siam Ocean World aquarium, the largest in South-East Asia. The fourth floor has a very good (if pricey) selection of modern Thai arts and crafts, as well as a large Kinokuniya bookstore. Great eating options in the basement, including a gourmet supermarket, two food courts and a canal-lined strip of fancy restaurants.

Street market on Sukhumvit, between Sois 1 and 20, offers many of the same items as the Patpong night market (although usually at somewhat better prices). Haggling is generally expected. Many tailor shops can be found here.

Chatuchak Weekend Market

Although many go to Singapore, but the fact is that Bangkok is a great place for shopping as well. In fact the Chatuchak weekend market in the city is the biggest market in the world. Also known as JJ, Chatuchak is huge (more than 35 acres or 1.13 km²) and there are in excess of 15,000 stalls. According to estimates, anywhere between 200,000 to 300,000 visitors visit the market daily during the weekend. The published opening hours for the market are from 9.00am to 6.00pm on Saturday and Sunday, though many of the stalls actually open sometime between 9.00am and 10.00am and close around sunset.

If bargain-hunting gives you an adrenalin rush, get ready for a head-spinning, earth-moving experience. Conquering this massive market is no easy feat though. The reward for taking a lot of patience along - together with a bottle of water is that you can find pretty much anything here. The range of products on sale is extensive, and includes household accessories, handicrafts, religious artifacts, art, antiques, live animals (which unfortunately are frequently caged in cruel conditions), books, music, clothes, food, plants and flowers and much more. Get a free map from one of the information kiosks and (try to) plan your adventure through the never-ending maze of crowded, narrow alleys.

How to reach the market: Take the skytrain (BTS) to Mo Chit station and exit down the right-hand stairs, follow the crowd for a five-minute walk, and you're there.

My Thailand Trip

Having said enough about Phi Phi island for the time being at least, let me now introduce you guys to my forthcoming trip.

This would be a 9 day trip and I am arriving at Bangkok on 17th January early morning at 2:30, courtesy Thai Airways. The next 5 nights I would be at Bangkok (Royal Benja hotel). On the morning of the 21st I plan to fly (Air Asia) to Phuket which would really be just a gateway to enter the magical world of Phi Phi. It takes about 90 minutes on the public ferry. But there are speed boats and long tail boats too.

The next 4 nights I would be staying at Phi Phi only to return to Bangkok on 25th. I plan to take the Thai flight back to Kolkata the same day.

This schedule I am afraid is not that laid back as I would have loved to. But you know, a man's got to either care little about everything or do enough work to earn a decent living. Yes it might not be backpacker stuff, but this schedule is not a 'package deal' as well. And yes, unlike the Japs, I do not plan to just take a snap and move on.

More of my travel plans later...

Pictures of Phi Phi

They say a picture speaks a thousands words. So here's a few of them... enjoy!

A Beginner's Guide To Phi Phi Island

Ko Phi Phi is a small archipelago in Krabi Province in South Thailand.

This is a group of 6 small islands on the Andaman Sea and according to the Nature Magazine, Phi Phi island ranks among the top 5 island getaways in the world, and is the best tropical paradise in Asia.

If you are planning to stay overnight at Phi Phi, then you must do so at Ko Phi Phi Don as this is where all the hotels/resorts are located. There are strict regulations prohibiting any construction work at the other islands and so you will not find any hotels or resorts there. Most day tourists arrive at Ko Phi Phi Don from either Phuket or Krabi, and it takes about 90 minutes from either of them depending on the tide. There are public ferries 3-4 times a day that transport passengers between Phi Phi, Phuket and Krabi at scheduled times.

But there are also long tail boats and speed boats that you can take to visit anytime. If you have some extra money, you may also take the chopper that will fly you to Phi Phi and this needless to say saves time and you can see the dramatic coastline too.

But there are those who would spend a few days here, rather than at Phuket or Krabi. So do you want to experience your island vacation? I wonder how it feels to be surrounded by water on all sides and to live in an island. Is there something like 'an island mentality' - more of that later.

Anyway, here is a picture of the main island "Ko Phi Phi Don" taken from the sky.

And here is a guide to all the islands that make up Phi Phi.

Ko Phi Phi Don - the largest and only populated island.

Ko Phi Phi Leh - Have you seen the movie "The Beach" starring Leonardo Di Caprio. See it (but I must warn you because it is quite violent and not a treasure really) because of the incredible 'Maya Bay' that is located in Ko Phi Phi Leh. This is a smaller island to the south that also has beautiful lagoons, hidden coves, caves - and it is a great site for diving and snorkeling too.

Ko Phai - Also known as Bamboo Island, this is a small low-lying islet to the north of Phi Phi Don with several good beaches. It absolutely looks a stunner.

Ko Yung - Also known as Yung Island, it is located north of Ko Phi Phi Don. The island has a stone beach in the east and small sandy beaches at the foot of the hills. It is teeming with various kinds of colorful coral reefs.

Bida Nok and Bida Nai - These are two small adjacent limestone karsts to the south of Phi Phi Leh, with near-vertical cliff walls rising from the sea.

Is it the Paradise?

The idea of a tropical paradise appeals to all.

Sun kissed white beaches, blue coral lagoons, crystal clear water, shining colored fish, swaying palm trees, tropical rain forest, sheer cliffs, underwater caves, hidden coves, bikini babes, great food, happening bars and a hot nightlife... if this is your idea of a perfect vacation... then guys, begin to envy me! Because I am off to perhaps the "Vacation of My Life" in just a few weeks from now.

Yes, its "Phi Phi Island" this time in south Thailand. Here are a few photos just to introduce you to the place. More coming, and that's a promise. So pal, keep checking this place.