Thursday, January 15, 2009

Snorkeling in Phi Phi

To the uninitiated, Phi Phi's snorkelling is like being on a fantasy planet. Even the experienced agree - it's good. Really good. With one of the world's most abundant coral reef systems, the locations and sights are both plentiful and astounding.

When the tide is right, places like Monkey Bay are just about as accessible as physics allows. The coral is just below the surface and brightly coloured fish dart here and there, inches from your mask. Hin Klang is in the middle of the sea, though it isn't nearly as deep as expected; you don't have to impersonate an island native on the hunt to enjoy the views - floating on the surface is fine. Phi Phi Lei has a few more snorkelling locations, as does Phi Phi Don, Bamboo Island, the list goes on.

Tour operators will supply equipment - i.e., fins and a mask - if you book a package trip, or you can rent them from dive operators if you choose to strike out on your own via foot or longtail boat. The serious may want to bring their own gear, or inspect before booking, as quality and available sizes will vary between shops.

Maya Bay Maya Bay has exceptionally clear water, although you can only enter by boat from November to April. I've only been there once and saw an octopus after just 10 minutes, a first for me! Stunning coral and fish are seen by thousands who arrive on various daytrips, so yes it's busy. The side closest to the entrance is best as there are many boats close to the beach. Maya Bay is best visited on an organised tour, and preferably early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Pi Leh Bay Pi Leh is situated on the opposite side of Phi Phi Leh to Maya Bay. It's a long thin bay with 100m high cliffs on all sides, at the entrance there's a shelf, the top of which is too shallow for anthing other than speedboat or longtail, this stops it from getting too busy.

Flat calm water awaits inside with some excellent snorkeling, bright parrot fish and sergeant majors rush the boats coming in hoping for some bread, pinapple or banana even. High tide is the best time to visit Pi Leh Bay.
Alternatively, at the entrance to the bay there's some great snorkeling to be found, morning is the best time as the area is in the shade in the afternoons.

Bamboo Island Stunning Bamboo Island is 5km from the northern tip of Phi Phi Don. The small island is only 500m across and has beautiful beaches virtually all the way around that give way to coral underwater.
Many daytrips go to Bamboo each day but it's not too crowded. Dive boats also go there too. The reefs are extensive and fairly shallow, but the beach is always there for a rest. Another excellent place to snorkel.

Mosquito Island Mosquito Island is next to Bamboo but it's less visited because there aren't really any beaches. Snorkeling is best along the east side however the majority of the coral is a bit deeper here so it's more of a scuba diving spot.

Hin Klang Hin Klang is an underwater reef, or coral mountain (as some call it) that doesn't break the surface. Located 2km offshore right in front of Laem Tong Beach in the north of Phi Phi, it's 90m long and 60m wide. As you approach you don't know that it's coming but wow, it's there all right.

Crystal-clear water, lots of fish and colourful coral, this is one of the best places to snorkel in Southern Thailand and probably the best place in Phi Phi.

Shark Point & Longbeach The snorkeling from Long Beach is possibly best direct from the beach in Phi Phi. You don't have to go very far to see the colourful fish and underwater habitat. Additionally around 200m from the beach there's a rock that just breaks the surface called Shark Point. No prizes for guessing why, although these are little fellas.

Here you'll find black-tip reef sharks from 40cm to to 1.2m swimming around the reef. During the day when there's lots of boats around they're hard to find but before 9am and after 5pm they're easily spotted.

The swells from May to October can make Shark Point dangerous so you should only go there on very calm days during that time. All year round you should be vigilant as currents can be strong, especially at mid tide. Novice snorkelers would be better to go with an organised tour.

Tonsai Bay West Side There's coral and lots of fish all along the west edge of the bay at the foot of the cliffs. A great way to explore is with a sea kayak, there are several small beaches to leave the kayak on while you snorkel, one of the better known ones is Monkey Beach about 500m out from Tonsai Beach.

Phi Phi Don East Coast There's a good reef that runs the entire length of the east coast of Phi Phi about 100m out from the shore. In the shallower water coral and fish can be seen in clear water, a little further out at the drop off larger fish and coral can be seen in deeper water.

Often the best places to snorkel are at the northern and southern points of the beaches.

Drinking at Phi Phi

Drinks prices are quite high (cocktails 180 baht). Many bars offer similar entertainment, cabarets and striking fire shows - performed by the same people, advertised by posters and flyers apparently drawn by the same person...

Apache Bar - a multi-story bar overlooking Ton Sai. And the home of the weekly transvestite shows. Was damaged in a fire in the early parts of 2007 but is now up and running again. Good place for dancing on Saturdays. Get a cheap "bucket" right next to the Apache Bar before entering.

Beach Bar - located right in the tsunami wastelands and a good choice for those looking to have a quiet drink.
Carlitos Bar - relaxed drinks on the beach served by amiable waitresses. During the winter months this place is full of Scandinavian party goers. Most of the service staff this time of year is over on extended holiday from Sweden so expect a lot of beautiful tanned blonds to be walking around.

Hippies Bar - nice but rowdy place at the beach with a lot of fire shows and full/half/quarter moon parties on a weekly basis.

JJ Pub/Café (Quiet Jazz and blues bar)

JP Stairs Bar

Carpe Diem - Similar bar next to Hippies - best avoided as the staff have been known to steal from customers and beat them up when they raise a fuss. Local police don't seem to care.

Reggae Bar - popular place that organizes mock Muay Thai fights most nights. If you are there at the right time you can even join in with the Muay Thai fights. They invite tourist, usually drunk, to get into the ring geared up and to beat on each other for a few rounds for a couple of FREE buckets.

Rolling Stoned Bar - Great rock music with a live band during high season and at other times of the year. They also have four pool tables and is a one of the more popular bars on the island.

Sports Bar

Sunset Bar

Tia and Millie Sunflower Bar - on Lohdalum Bay, a nautically-themed beach bar with 'ark' and longtail-bar, pool table and laid-back beach seating. A great place to watch the often spectacular sunsets.

Tiger Bar - The local expat's hangout. Located next to Papaya Restaurant and Rolling Stoned Bar this small multi level bar is a favorite with the local dive community. The bar typically gives out FREE buckets from 12:00 - 12:15.

Woodys Bar is basically just a walk up liquor store, but they have a few tables out front. Its close to Apache. The staff are funny and the Beatles are always playing. Nice place to get a 180 baht bucket to walk around on the beach with.

Viewpoint Bar

Where To Eat At Phi Phi

In general, Southern Thai food is renowned for its spiciness. Much of the cuisine has its origins in Malay, Indonesian and Indian food. Favourite dishes from the south include Indian-style Muslim curry (massaman), rice noodles in fish curry sauce (Khanom Jeen) and chicken birayani.

Food on Ko Phi Phi is extremely varied, given the diminutive size of the island, but is not as spectacular as it generally is in Thailand, because most ingredients have to be brought in by boat from the mainland. Nevertheless there are some restaurants that manage to serve surprisingly tasty food:

Cosmic - Italian restaurant that deserves the name - has two outlets on the island and serves very good pizza. Aside from the pizza, the Thai food at this restaurant is good and reasonably priced.

CALAMARO RESTO - The usual suspect are served in this simple yet quality restaurant. A wide selection of breakfast, fresh pasta, pizza, thai food, sandwiches and more is complemented by fruit shakes, liqueurs and evening cocktails. And the best "fried ice-cream". All food is clean, good, cheap as reasonably priced.

Hibachi - all you can eat Japanese-style buffet near Carlito's Bar. Excellent sushi selection for the price (200 baht). Two outlets very close together. The grilled selections and Thai food on their buffet is not very good.
Little Britain - If you are looking for a good traditional English breakfast with eggs, Heinz Baked Beans, sausage, bacon, potatoes, mushrooms and black pudding this is the place to go. English tea also comes with your breakfast.
Mr. Tee's - When you come off the ferry, veer slightly left and you find yourself on an alley covered by tarps, with small Thai restaurants. You'll notice a lot of locals eating in this alley. The first booth on your left is Mr. Tee's. They tend to be forgetful but the food is good, cheap, and spicy!

Papaya - one of the first restaurants rebuilt after the tsunami. A small green 'shop' restaurant opposite the Reggae Bar and next door to Tiger Bar, run by the enthusiastic and friendly Mr Nod. Don't let the unprepossessing looks of the restaurant put you off - the food here is incredibly good and very good value. Serves authentic Thai food, hot and spicy as it should be, but the staff helpfully allow you to express the spiciness in percentile terms, with 100% being 'Thai spicy'. Among local expats living on the island, this place is known as the place to get good cheap Thai food. If you are looking for a personal sized portion with rice at a cheaper price ask for your food to be "On Rice".

Sports Bar - For some great English-style meat pies Sports Bar is the place to go. It is also the only place on the island where you can buy a Pint of Chang and get Pitchers of beer.

Tuk's BBQ - Located next to apache, its basically a street vendor, but it has the absolute best BBQ on the island, with most items costing 30 baht.

As for Ko Phi Phi, reasonable priced and tasty seafood is obviously what most tourists long for when visiting a coastal province like Krabi. In this connection, the wing shell (หอยชักตีน) is Krabi’s famous cuisine and is eaten with a spicy dip. In addition, stirred fried Spotted Babylon (หอยหวาน), which is found in mangrove forests, with chilies and basil is also famous. This cuisine is common in Krabi’s restaurants. Another great Krabi taste is, of course, seafood.

What To See In Phi Phi Island

Viewpoint - walk up to the Viewpoint, 186 metres above sea level (a very steep walk of between 10-25 minutes, depending on fitness), to get a breathtaking view of the entire island - particularly at dawn or sunset (bring a flashlight). You will be surprised at how narrow the sand strip is between the two main parts of the island.

Monkey Beach - accessible on foot or by renting a canoe, or be lazy and charter a longtail boat. Don't forget to take some bananas for the monkeys! Be careful as they can sometimes be aggressive.

Fireshow - there are several highly skilled and entertaining fireshows held nightly in several venues on the island, including at Carlito's, Apache Bar, Hippies, Carpe Diem, and The Tia and Millie Sunflower Bar on Lohdalum.

Tsunami Memorial Garden - by the Tia and Millie Sunflower Bar; a beautiful place for quiet contemplation and paying one's respects to the victims of the recent tragedy.

Phi Phi Don This island is the largest of the 6 Phi Phi islands and consists of two main sections. It is on Ton Sai where the original inhabitants settled and is now the home of the main accommodation area. Phi Phi Don is quite stunning and has earned the title of one of the most fantastic islands in the world. Nowadays though, with development, the beaches have had to pay a cost and so they’re not quite as spectacular as they were in the days of yesteryear. The landscape however, can never be ruined.

Phi Phi Le The second largest of the Phi Phi Islands is extremely beautiful, and pristine, but authorities in charge do not allow visitors to stay overnight. Besides the beach, other attractions include the Phaya Naak Cave with its prehistoric paintings and edible-nest swiftlets.

Yao Beach - Phi Phi Don Yao Beach, just south of Ton Sai, offers visitors some fantastic views, scenery and coral reefs for snorkeling and scuba diving. This small place is packed out however, with places to stay and so some people do complain that the vicinity has been rather over developed. You can get there either by walking from Ton Sai or taking a long-tail boat.

Lanti Beach - Phi Phi Don Next door to Yao Beach, Lanti Beach is very similar in many regards with its great scenery and coral reefs. You can get there on foot.

Hin Khao Beach - Phi Phi Don This beach is extremely quiet and can only be reached on foot.

Ton Sai Bay - Phi Phi Don Ao Ton Sai is where most of the action is; be it restaurants, bars, hotels or guesthouses. Most tourists stay at Ton Sai Bay because of the convenience. Even though it isn’t the most beautiful place on Phi Phi, it is still impressive.

Laem Tong, Phi Phi Don Laem Thong, located at the very north of the island offers visitors and lovely quite beach with exhilarating scenery. Accommodation on Laem Thong is aimed at higher spending tourists.
Yung Island This island just north of Phi Phi Don has a rocky beach and some coral.

Pai Island Not far from Yung Island is Pai Island. On the northern and eastern sides of the island are sandy beaches.

Other Attractions

Ko Pida Nok Besides an abundance of pretty coral, this island is home to plentiful marine life including: leopard sharks, turtles and moray eels. This island is popular with divers.

Ko Pida Nai Just up from Pida Nok is Pida Nai. Like its sister island, it is a good place for diving.

Shark Point (Hin Bida) Shark Point is a marine sanctuary with a reef that comprises of three pinnacles. The largest of which actually breaks the surface appearing as a barren rock outcropping. The reef is home to a delightful abundance of tropical, colorful soft corals and vibrant sea fans that decorate the limestone pinnacles.

Garang Heng - Garang Heng is a small submerged reef just east of Phi Phi Le. It offers healthy reef with anemones, soft corals and even sharks.

Maya Bay Maya Bay has arguably Phi Phi’s most fantastic beach and was the location for the movie The Beach (Leonardo DiCaprio) in 1998. The bay also has superb marine life and is a favourite spot for experienced divers.

Wang Long This site is well known for its underwater cave systems and is only recommended for experienced divers. The caves tunnel into the rock face in two places and open out into a larger cave where surfacing is possible.

King Cruiser Wreck A popular and perhaps the best dive site off Ko Phi Phi is King Cruiser which claim remnants of a passenger ship which sunk in 1997 after it hit the Anemone reef. The Anemone reef is in itself a unique dive site with a massive limestone pinnacle which soars 30 meters from the seabed to just 4 meters beneath the surface. The site is well-known for its abundance of sea anemones that cling to every surface while attracting enormous schools of fish. Different types of fish to be seen include: tropicals, snappers, groupers and colorful clown fish, along with larger game-fish like tuna and barracuda as well as the occasional leopard shark.

Hin Dot These submerged pinnacles, often called Chimney Rock, are located just to the south of Phi Phi Don. The formation drops to a depth of 30 meters and has several coral shelves for exploration upon your gradual ascent. Nurse sharks can occasionally be found here.

Lohsamah Bay The bay is popular for night-time divers. It has a sandy bottom with oysters and clams and patches of brain coral for nocturnal reef critters to hide amongst.. There is a spectacular 15 meter deep canyon just wide enough for single file swimming on the eastern side.

Hin Pae This is a relatively shallow dive site - 10 to 15 meters deep. Its shallow depth offers excellent snorkeling. Its soft and hard coral provide shelter for a rich variety of coral fish. Crabs, lobsters, angelfish, groupers, snappers and surgeonfish are also residents of this area.